Going where the wind (doesn't) blow

 I had planned to start hiking the Tokai Nature Trail on Tuesday 27 August from Osaka. However, landing in Osaka on Thursday 22 August to be greeted with a forecast of 27-35°c and +70% humidity for the next two weeks put a spanner in the gears of Plan A.

 Plan B was to travel to Nakatsugawa, Gifu on Monday 26 August to walk some of the Kiso Road to Niekawa, Nagano (a stretch of the Nakasendo Way through the Kiso Valley and post towns) while the weather cooled down and then head to Tokyo and start the trail there instead. However, a spanner in the shape of Typhoon Shanshan was soon also lodged firmly in the gears.

 Typhoon Shanshan is predicted to make landfall in western Japan on Tues/Wed 27/28 August, which means in the interest of self preservation and not loosing my tent to the winds, Plan C is now in motion. Plan C consists of traveling from Uji to Hikone, Kyoto on Monday and then heading southeast to Nagoya, Aichi Tuesday morning to spend at least Tuesday night and Wednesday night there until the weather dies down and public transport resumes. I will then walk the Kiso Road and reassess the weather and Tokai Nature Trail starting location once done. 

.-.-.-.

 22 - 25 August 2024

 Osaka and Uji

 Weather: hot with a 100% chance of excessive sweating, generally clear skies, some showers Sunday night.

 I landed in Osaka at 9 am on 22 August after a 14 hr trip (admittedly a very cruisy 2 flight trip from Western Australia) and was at Osaka station by 11, stashed my bag in a locker and promptly found a mall with aircon and food to spend the day in before heading to my hotel near Tenjimbashisuji 6-chome Station.

 Picked up some last minute gear (butane, bear bell, sleeping bag liner, Japanese charger) in Ishii Sports and Montbell stores. I also investigated the dehydrated meal options out of curiosity and wasn't blown away by the selection.

 Dinner was at a small vegan restaurant called Aju, where I chowed down on some Okonomiyaki and fried "chicken".

 I checked out on the 23rd and jumped on a train (where I met up with my brother who'd I'd spend the next 3 days with) to Uji. We stopped to checkout Kyoto station, and it's maze of below and above ground walkways on the way.

 Uji was beautiful and suprisingly quite - but this may have been due to the hot and humid conditions. Three days went by in a haze of matcha icecream, serene temples, great views and sweat. We checked out the following places:

 Ocha to Uji-no-machi Historical Park and Chazuni (Uji Tea museum and cafe) - nice green space along the Uji river with paths and tea plantations, Chazuni shares the history of Uji and Ujicha (green tea produced in Uji). Cafe offers lunch and drinks.

 Daikichiyama Observation Deck and Mt. Daikichi (part of the Tokai Nature Trail Nara bypass) - climbed at 5:30 for the 6:30 sunset and stayed til 7:45 to see the city light scape.

 Asagiri Bridge and Tachibana Island - scenic views over the Uji river, cormorant fishing tours are available.

 Byodo-in Temple and Hoshokan Museum - large World Heritage temple complex with lovely gardens and museum housing national treasures. A tea house offers tastings. The temple is featured on the 10 yen coin and the phoenix statues on the 10,000 yen note.

 Tale of Genji Museum - small museum about one of history's first novels, the Tale of Genji written in early 11 century by Murasaki Shikibu.

 Byodo-in Omotesando - shopping street, with cafes and icecream/desert shops.

 Kōshō-ji Temple - officially Buttoku-san Kannon Dori-in Kosho-horin Zen Temple, a temple complex with serene courtyard gardens and no crowds.

I waved goodbye to my brother and my cold weather gear on Sunday night. When (if) it gets cold enough I will have to make my way to his house in Hyogo prefecture and collect it - but that is a problem for another day and another plan.